How to Repair a Damaged Lawn: Step-by-Step Restoration

Why lawn restoration works (and when it’s worth it)

Between the Aussie heat, foot traffic, dry spells, and weeds, once flourishing lawns can end up looking dead, thin, or patchy. But that doesn't necessarily mean it needs to be ripped up and re-turfed. Instead, a simple lawn restoration can help turn your yard around without starting from scratch. Here's how.

Diagnose before you treat: What’s really wrong?

First things first, you'll need to work out what's causing your dead grass. Common issues include:

• Thatch build-up, caused by a spongy layer blocking water and nutrients.
• Compaction, from hard soil stopping root systems from growing.
• Bare patches, from foot traffic, pets, grubs, or dry 'hydrophobic' soil.
• Too much shade, causing thinning grass.
• Drought stress resulting in dry or slow-growing grass.
• Thin coverage, where weeds move into weak grass.
• Soil pH issues where nutrients aren't being absorbed properly.
• Pests or disease, seen through irregular brown or dead patches.

If your grass has small patches of problem areas, a garden sprayer can target these spots without risking the health of the rest of your lawn.

The best time to repair your lawn (season and grass type)

Knowing your lawn type will help you determine the best time of year for effective lawn care and watering. That said, you should always avoid lawn renovations in heatwaves, heavy frosts, or tight water restrictions.

For warm-season grasses:

Warm-season grasses, like couch, kikuyu, or buffalo lawn, thrive in summer heat, browning in cooler temperatures. Focusing your lawn repair during early summer will allow you to take advantage of higher soil temperatures for more successful de-thatching, aeration, and patch repair.

For cool-season grasses:

Established lawns like ryegrass or fescue are known as cool-season grasses that prefer cooler temperatures. Scheduling your lawn renovation for winter, autumn, or even early spring will help support thick, healthy growth, making it easier to repair bare patches.

Step-by-step: How to rejuvenate a lawn

Step 1: Scalp or de-thatch (if needed)

Have you noticed a spongy feeling or a thick brown layer under grass blades? That's thatch, a build-up of dead grass and lawn roots that reduces nutrient soil contact. It's important to remove thatch (and its debris) by raking or cutting it out before starting your lawn renovation.

Step 2: Aerate and relieve compaction

Hard, compacted soil can prevent grass from spreading properly. To loosen the soil, use a core aeration tool or a garden fork for smaller lawns. This allows air, water, and nutrients into the soil, which can be further supported by brushing a sandy loam into the holes.

Step 3: Feed the roots and re-wet hydrophobic areas

Once your lawn is aerated and loose, apply a lawn fertiliser. If you're noticing water runoff or dry patches, you can add a soil wetting agent to improve moisture retention. A multi-function watering gun will help you achieve even, controlled coverage without blasting grass seeds and soil around.

Step 4: Top dress to level

For small patches, you can skip this step. If you have large bare patches, bumps, or poor soil quality, add a 5–10mm layer of sandy loam or a sandy composite to the surface. Rake it in lightly so the grass tips just show. This way, new grass seeds have better soil contact, leading to better water retention.

Step 5: Overseed/patch repair

New lawn seeds must penetrate the soil to aid seed germination. Overseeding is good for cool-season lawns, while patching with runners/plugs works best for warm-season lawns. Press the lawn seeds into the soil surface, apply a light cover, and then regularly water.

Step 6: Watering schedule for recovery

Successful lawn repair relies on effective watering. In the first 2 weeks, water lightly and frequently to keep the surface layer moist. From weeks 3 to 6, you can water more deeply but less often, helping penetrate the root zone and encourage healthy growth. Use a digital tap timer to automate your watering schedule and give your lawn the moisture it needs.

Step 7: First mow and height management

Don't pull out your lawn mower until the new growth is properly established and can't be pulled out easily. The first time you mow your lawn, set the mower to roughly 1.5x your usual height, gradually lowering it on subsequent mows. As a general rule, never remove more than a third of the grass height at once, using sharp blades for a clean cut.

FAQs: Lawn restoration and repair

What’s the best time to repair the lawn?

For cooler-season grass, the best time for repair is winter or autumn, while warm-season grass prefers the summer or warmer months.

Do I need to dethatch every time?

No, you only need to remove thatch if the lawn feels spongy underfoot, there's a thick brown layer between grass and soil, or the thatch is over 1 to 1.5cm.

Can I overseed a warm-season lawn?

You can overseed a warm-season lawn, such as couch or kikuyu, if you use the correct lawn seed and only fill in small, thin areas. Although it's better to loosen the soil and use plugs/runners.

How soon will I see results?

After lawn repair, you should start to see greener grass in 1 to 2 weeks and a thicker, healthier lawn within 4 to 6 weeks with good watering and mowing.

Should I fertilise before or after aeration?

Lawn fertiliser should be used after aerating and top dressing (if required). Make sure to give your lawn a good watering after with a sprayer or nozzle.

Rejuvenate your lawn with confidence

With the right diagnosis and a little love and care, you'll be well on your way to repairing bare patches and enjoying a greener lawn. Take the guesswork out of your lawn care with Nylex's range of premium watering accessories available at your local Bunnings.